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La Purisima: The CCC, Adobe Bricks, and the Mission That Remembered Itself

Near Los Olivos, California

La Purisima Mission was founded in seventeen eighty-seven, leveled by an earthquake in eighteen twelve, rebuilt, and by the nineteen thirties was a ruin. Walls had melted back into earth. Roof tiles were scattered. The compound that had once housed hundreds of Chumash neophytes was returning to the landscape it had been taken from.

Then the New Deal arrived. Between nineteen thirty-four and nineteen forty-one, Civilian Conservation Corps workers undertook what became the largest single CCC project in California: a complete reconstruction of La Purisima using original materials and original methods. The scale was extraordinary. One hundred forty thousand adobe bricks were made by hand on site, the clay dug from the surrounding hillsides. Fifty-four thousand roof tiles. Forty thousand floor tiles. Thirteen separate structures rebuilt from archaeological evidence and historical drawings. The project was completed on December seventh, nineteen forty-one, the one hundred fifty-fourth anniversary of the original Spanish dedication.

The reconstruction is genuinely impressive. La Purisima became the most completely restored mission complex in California and was designated a National Historic Landmark in nineteen seventy.

The labor force that built it included Native American workers. The CCC employed Indigenous workers across California through the nineteen thirties; the specific composition of the La Purisima crew and whether any of those workers were descendants of the Chumash families missionized at this exact site is a question whose answer lives in labor rolls and enrollment records that have not been fully published. The historians who have reviewed the program's general practices believe the connection is plausible. The full documentation has not been made public.

What the restoration did not restore is the record of what the compound was for: the locked dormitories, the labor regime, the epidemic mortality that reduced the Chumash population around this mission from an estimated three thousand to fewer than three hundred over the mission period. The CCC rebuilt the architecture with extraordinary craft. The uses to which that architecture was put are a separate accounting, available to anyone who asks the question the tour does not always frame.

Map of California with this story marked