Tahquitz Canyon: The Origin of the Cahuilla
Near Palm Springs, California
The canyon below you has a name that predates the city of Palm Springs by an interval so large it is difficult to hold in mind. Tahquitz Canyon is a red-rock gorge cut by a seasonal stream into the base of the San Jacinto Mountains, and it has been understood as a specific, significant, named place by the Cahuilla people for a very long time.
In Cahuilla accounts of their own origins, Tahquitz is the name of a powerful shaman, one of the first. The powers he demonstrated in this canyon were not uniformly benevolent. He was capable of both healing and destruction, and his relationship to this landscape established something about the relationship between power and place that Cahuilla communities have understood and maintained across generations. The Agua Caliente Cultural Museum documents this tradition; the interpretation belongs to the people who carry it.
The canyon is also a waterfall in the rock. A narrow gorge. The kind of terrain that appears in films because it looks, to eyes trained on other landscapes, like an ideal version of itself. Film crews came to Tahquitz Canyon beginning in the nineteen-thirties, including Frank Capra's Lost Horizon, and continued using it as a location into the nineteen-forties and fifties. Some visitors who arrive for the first time have a sense of recognition they cannot fully explain. That is usually why.
The Agua Caliente Band regained administrative control of Tahquitz Canyon and the surrounding Indian Canyons in the nineteen-nineties, and now operates the site as a tribal park with guided tours. The entry fee supports tribal programs.
What the tour offers is the canyon itself: the waterfall, the palm grove, the geology, and the context for why this particular place carries the weight that it does. There is more than one way to walk through a canyon. Knowing whose canyon it is changes what you see.