The Staked Plains: Where the Sky Has No Edges
Near Midland Odessa, Texas
The land you are crossing has a name that has puzzled etymologists and geographers for a long time. The Llano Estacado. The Staked Plains. Spanish conquistadors named it in the fifteen hundreds, and nobody is completely certain what the stakes referred to.
One theory holds that early Spanish explorers drove wooden stakes into the ground to mark their route across a landscape so featureless that disorientation was genuinely dangerous. The plains offered no landmarks, no trees, no ridgelines, no creek beds visible from a distance. A person lost on the Llano in the fifteen hundreds had very few options. Another theory holds that the name refers to the escarpment on the eastern edge of the plateau, a steep cliff that the Spanish thought resembled the palisades of a stockade. The escarpment drops sharply on the eastern side, creating a wall effect that would have been visible from the plains below.
What is not in dispute is the character of the place. The Llano Estacado is one of the largest mesas on the North American continent, covering roughly thirty-two thousand square miles. It sits at an elevation of three thousand to five thousand feet above sea level, tilting almost imperceptibly from northwest to southeast. It is susceptible to dust storms because the wind crosses it without obstruction. It receives little rain, roughly fourteen to twenty-three inches a year. The summers are long and hot. Francisco Coronado, crossing this ground in fifteen forty-one, wrote that there was not a stone, nor bit of rising ground, nor a tree, nor a shrub, nor anything to go by.
He was looking at the surface. He was not wrong about the surface. But beneath it lay what would eventually make this the most economically important flat expanse of ground in the United States.