The Family Feud That Made Modern Napa
Near St. Helena, California
The Robert Mondavi Winery opened in Oakville in nineteen sixty-six, the first major new winery to open in Napa Valley since Prohibition. It was built as an act of revenge.
Robert Mondavi's family had owned Charles Krug Winery, the oldest in Napa Valley, since nineteen forty-three. In nineteen sixty-five, Robert and his brother Peter had a physical altercation over the direction of the business. Family accounts differ, even decades later, on who struck whom and what was said. What is clear is the outcome: Robert was forced out of Charles Krug by their mother, Rosa Mondavi, and he had to decide what to do next.
What he did next was build this place.
The mission he set for himself was specific. He wanted to make wine with the intentionality and technical rigor of the great French estates, but market it as American, without apology, and without the pretense that Napa was merely an apprentice to Burgundy. He traveled to France every year and brought back techniques. He introduced extended oak barrel aging for California cabernet. He promoted French-California collaboration as a marketing strategy rather than an admission of inferiority. He invented the term Fumé Blanc for sauvignon blanc because he believed the existing name was not selling the wine it deserved to be.
In nineteen seventy-nine, he partnered with the Rothschild family of Bordeaux to create Opus One, the first major California-French joint venture wine. The message was direct: this is not an imitation of something French. This is something new.
The family at Charles Krug never reconciled with Robert during his lifetime. The personal wound drove an enormous amount of industrial energy. The winery he founded out of spite became, in retrospect, the proof of concept for everything modern Napa aspired to be.